Fred hits the Wine (Bottle)

On perusing the lovely new section of Fred Perry online, my eyes rest upon an interesting pastel pink and black theme chosen by some web designer to surround a posed Winehouse, who is frankly, looking a bit of alright. Highlighted are her words:

‘I’m really excited about doing this collection with Fred Perry, we’ve been working on it for a while and it’s great to finally see it come to fruition.’

It is, for one, hard to not attribute the accent exhaling from the Winehouse while reading the quote, but even more so, I am left marveling at how this must have been most intelligible, relevant sentence strung together by the pop Queen to have it featured slap bang on the top of the page. Hm. On looking through the seventeen piece collection, I would like to say I was greatly enthused to see the pink and black HTML was not just a web design flaw, but a recurring colour scheme throughout- featuring key items like the pastel pink or black waist belt (RRP £65) a nipping grey pencil skirt (RRP £80) which stylists have matched with Perry/Winehouse’s pink and black polo’s, golf style jumpers and outerwear. But since I have eyes, it didn’t quite work for me. The collection ranges from £60 to £275, so is aimed at the usual market, and so it is refreshing to see an Amy Winehouse label hasn’t bumped up the economics here. Recently Fred Perry has been bridging the gap to their younger market, and sprucing up their ‘down with the kids’ image, what with festival sponsorship and musical participations, so it seems a branding with the Winehouse was an obvious step.

Winehouse’s appearance often left little to be desired in the woeful years, but now we know a cleaner, happier jazz voice, whose quirky style is starting to show through without the beer can in hand. Her retro glam style ties in perfectly with Fred Perry- it is undeniably a good pairing. But are the threads up to scratch? To be perfectly honest, the collections smacks of ‘Fred Perry does Fred Perry’ with added publicity, but as usual, he (or, sorry, Amy) can’t be faulted on clothing quality, flattering lines and smart casual assortment with a few gems amongst the usual polo dresses. The standout piece would have to be the iconic Perry polo top which finds itself in spun silk for this collection. For a while, Fred Perry took on a rich chav status, but are doing a U turn, finding themselves on male skinny jean pack- but the ones who won’t quite commit to full on ‘hipster’ couture- and instead go a little bit ‘Cook from Skins’ in keeping with the ‘lad’ who’s on trend. All of Fred Perry’s line caters well for masculine and feminine silhouettes but the Amy collection is aimed primarily at women, and the previously mentioned standout silk polo comes in a flattering peach hue, which takes a retro flavor, drawing inspiration from the Teddy Boy and girl trend of 80’s Brits, like the Winehouse herself.

Aside from the business of the clothes, (which frankly, are a tad passé) the idea of Amy as designer makes for an interesting choice. Three time Wimbledon winner Perry was famed for his bold brash outlook on life, and never succumbed to the social etiquette of his 1940’s Wimbledon audience. He was perceived as a chancer, a working class boy done good, one who never let the condescending tennis fans get him down, so much so that his business mind surpassed his talent on the courts to find us buying his styles in 2010. Winehouse gives off the same sort of charm: the broken soulster who so easily could chuck away her talent for living in the now, swamped by the media every time she goes on a bender, isn’t seen as the classiest of birds (bloodied ballet pumps, anyone?) But when she isn’t injecting heroin into her toes, the world wishes her well with her quirky styling, and entertaining mannerisms- Winehouse on Never Mind the Buzzcocks- absolute genius (Youtube it!). Like Perry she may have the headlines against her, but hell she keeps coming back, bouffant and tattoos in perfect positioning, so the best of luck to her line.

The Urban Turban

Originality is a rare find in fashion these days as the contemporary catwalks are rife with nostalgia for the past, we’ve witnessed the late noughties perpetually looking back to resurrect trends that graced the early twentieth century.   Vintage is a booming business and the charity shops are stuffed full of hipsters claiming their faux fur jackets, polka dot shirts and broderie anglaise items for half nothing.

The latest trend to realign the old with the new is the turban.  Pretty much ‘out there’, and seemingly sacrilegious I assure you the turban prancing down catwalks alludes to no religion, bar her Majesty, Anna Wintour, and its influences derive from Orientalism, not the Rastafarian, Indian, Pashtun and Mayan coverings which spring to mind on hearing the word ‘turban.’

Today we shall look at the turban from an artistic perspective, and appreciate the beauty of the original head gear that made it so popular in the 1920’s, and has now found its place on the shelves of American Apparel, Topshop and vintage stores across Dublin and the Western world.

Prada sent its girls down the runway in an array of silk turbans circa 2007, fuelling the trend which has, understandably, been slowly finding itself in the highstreet (the everyday buyer might question looking as though they’ve just walked out of the shower.) But, a daring few in the limelight have been papped in their turbans of choice, none other than Beyonce, Pixie Geldof, and the skinnier, blonder half of Mary Kate or Ashley (forgive me, they look pretty much the same..) Prada took its inspirations from the 20’s screen sirens like Greta Garbo and Loretta Young, who wore their silk turbans adorned with pearls and flowers whilst lounging around in black and white. But for contemporary fashion points, a more interesting spin would be to take on the Oriental exoticism that inspired the post-flapper trends of the twenties. So, to wear yourself- take inspiration from the masters, namely Vermeer and his Girl with a Pearl Earring. Buying a readymade turban could be daunting but will look great, and are easy to wear (literally, like putting on a hat- simples.) Firstly, tie your hair up in a bun and find yourself a readymade turban from Harlequin or the mini turbans from American Apparel and Topshop, team with minimal makeup and clothing (the turban is a statement in itself) and , of course, a pair of pearl earrings. Or, Option B, for the faint of heart: try out a mini turban. Take a silk scarf- (go for a really bold statement with a paisley style print) and wrap around itself, place on head like a hairband and clip under with bobby pins. Or, as above, go for the readymade versions. Tips to remember when wearing a turban- ignore funny looks. They don’t get style. Equally, play down your outfit, even though it may be tempting to match your turban to your shoes and so forth, avoid the dramasoc rehearsal look and tone down colours and patterns.

Howevs, you could try out a boudoir turban, complete with harem pants, turkish delights and a strategically placed hookah pipe.  Thoroughly reccomended.

Note: this look is perfect for hangover/too many essays/just too lazy days when your hair isn’t in the best shape, the turban hides all- so not only will you look on trend, you save yourself from looking in need of a good wash. Result.

Biba Fever

SIXTIES PHENONEMON CLOTHING BRAND RELAUNCH? Check. In keeping with the ‘noughties’ vintage (meets retro, meets glam) trend? Check. Brit poster girl with a not so sqeaky (but ever so cool) clean image? Check. Fashion followers held their breaths for the 9th September 2010, thirty five years after Barbara Hulancki’s enterprise shut the doors of the iconic brand Biba, but does the relaunch live up to the hype?

Imprinted with the original art deco logo, Biba’s new collection stays true to its roots with heavy embellishments, rich textures and shimmering fabrics for a truly opulent feel- in keeping entirely with the first collection shelved in Biba’s first small store in Abingdon Road, London. Nodding to its historical origins, The 2010 A/W collection mimics vintage but, alas, gone is the straight and up swinging skirts of the sixties, and in are the hourglass shapes of retro-glam decadence with a modern twist. The variety of garments cater for all- with inspirations from 30’s Hollywood starlets in beautiful full length gowns, or a modern more casual silhouette in the ‘soft metals’ collection, which combines a colour palette of dusky purples silver greys and lavenders in flattering draping cuts juxtaposed with chunky knits to ensure ultra wearability for day to evening looks. Equally, if you are looking to spend on a long lasting winter coat- go online, http://www.mybiba.com and take a look at the statement woollen military coat, £290, which will not only flatter all figures but the double breasting and intricately woven Biba logo design throughout will stand out from the crowd.

But does the new collection really grasp the feel of what Biba was first famed for? Hulancki’s breakthrough after her gingham shift with matching hat was featured in the daily express sparked a phenomenon- Twiggy, Brigitte Bardot and the British public sent orders by the thousands to get their hands of the revolutionary sleeveless dresses with risqué cut out holes. Hulancki’s radical handmade pieces were all the rage and the sixties saw women wearing Biba cosmetics (lipsticks shades if brown had never been seen before) silk turbans and mini skirts. It was a cultural revolution. 2010’s collection, is not. Sadly after a whirlwind of Biba fever- makeup, clothes and even household items, Hulancki and her partner fell into financial problems and sold on the brand. Today you can see barely a flicker of the young art students fashion flair and although high in quality and of beautiful craftsmanship, the new Biba is to be desired, but it is just not the same boundary breaking label it was once famed for. The leopard print pieces- particularly the striking leopard print maxi coat retailing at £390 along with the heavily embellished dresses are great investment pieces, however bar the fine jewellery and statement bags there is little of great impact in the collection. Somehow, the spark that popped up in that one little store all those years ago is lost in translation as a section of a chain department store shelve it for the older women to browse. Sometimes, putting the new it girl in your designs doesn’t quite cut it (sorry Daisy); we’ve seen it before, bring back platforms and a dogtooth shift dress, oh and those Biba baked beans and Flamingos too.

E is for Elizabeth Taylor

 

Having spent her lifetime in the public eye, Taylor’s fashion choices mirror the luxurious world she has become accustomed too, and in her younger years, her provocative choice of lingerie as outerwear and photo shoots in one and two pieces revealed her flirty, extrovert nature that embraced her femininity. But what every one of Taylor’s iconic pieces- be they decadent ball gowns, film wardrobes or day wear, is famed for is their embellishment of diamonds; her signature look which is reflected in recent jewellery and perfume.

Channel Taylor today in costume jewellery to accompany your evening wear in striking colours, as she did to play up her famously raven hair. Still not enthralled by the Dame who inspired Michael Kors along with a multitude of jewellery designers and stole the heart of eight husbands? Then think to her iconic role as Cleopatra, and immediately the intricately woven gold costume textured and encrusted with jewels should come to mind. (Well it should, if you are ‘cultured’..Ah, see..Now you remember..) Complete with statement emerald eye shadow, Taylor’s re-enacting of the Egyptian Queen is ever so current in the retro ‘wave’ which is very desirable for the quirky fashionista. In these financial times, it sure is nice to find a true embodiment of what glamour really is. Diamonds are forever, and Taylor, for eternity.

Tribune Article April Athletic Aesthetics.

Say no to luminous leg warmers and the ‘nu-rave fads’ of yesteryear and wave your purses at the incoming sports shapes revamped in layered fabrics and structured patterns of the upcoming athletic aesthetic.

Athletic wear has always been a constant on the runways as the classic sportswear shapes, patterns and fabrics always offer simple classic lines combined with a comfort factor certain to be favoured by the masses. Yet this year witnesses an ever so subtle rebirth, teaming cut out bodysuits styles with super light fabrics to blur the edges of a streamlined silhouette. Fashion frontier Alexander Wang’s spring collection presents androgynous, harem (yes-they do have longevity) style suit-pants which were teamed with monochrome body hugging sweatshirt crops and sports bras, Wang’s take on sports luxe nodded to the traditional with culottes enhanced by knee length socks, heeled loafers and took on a classic American trend with a twist in striped cotton t-shirts complete with hoods.

Sports luxe blends the flattering simple lines that we have been ashamedly familiar with, yes: our old Addidas tracksuits. Usually a symbol of the chav, ‘tracksuits’ are surprisingly flattering: the double vertical stripe down the pant, the bold patterning that geometrically enhances a toned body and the simplicity of monochrome broken up by a brief splash of colour are all on our side. Revamped for 2010, designers combine the traditional elements of sportswear and enhance it for a strangely familiar yet eclectic juxtaposition. From the padded shoulders reminiscent of American football adorned with chiffon and completed with open toe shoots that were present on Wang’s runway, to Pucci’s colour popping tropical body cons inspired by his love of scuba diving. Not to fear if you prefer your muted greys, charcoals and a rocker image, sports luxe reached down to the darker aspects of Proenza Schouler’s grown up grunge reminiscent of the skateboard and surfing cultures of California and international city/beach hipsters.

So, how to bring one home for the team (Don‘t judge me) The high street is the main point of call, American Apparel being the constant headliner in the sports luxe trend and a favourite amongst the die hard trendy kids for years now. Team a bodysuit (yes, it’s a leggings and a top for one price!) with a loose-fitting cardigan that ties (rather than buttons) around the body. For day, a pair of converse and a loose plait will suffice and follow the look into evening with statement heels and a flash of bold lipstick.

As with every trend, the question has to asked, is it worth parting with your drinking cash?  I would never condone spending on a trend, but the athletic edge has a constant ebb and flow through the fashion decades, and the layered casual comfort is perfect for students especially when remodelled with luxurious fabrics for those who like to out-do each other. Office workers and professionals breathe a sigh of relief as casual wear becomes catwalk worthy, but in UCD daytime ’chic’ is what we do best, so vamp up oversized parachute pants or your staple leggings with layered crops a la Topshop, Penneys or American Apparel and you are good to go. Lycra has been in for a while now, and it isn’t looking like it’s about to leave so if you haven’t already, an investment in a pastel unisex cardigan and a spandex bodysuit is most definitely on the cards. Go, be trendy… But leave the sports to the pros.

Hello world!

These are a selection of articles I have been doing, call me self indulgent, but I want them saved on the big old cybernettage. Enjoy.